The Nullarbor Plain - a book by Neville Collins

The vast sweep of the Nullarbor Plain stretches for hundreds of kilometres inland from the spectacular Bunda Cliffs. For much of our history this remote stretch of the Australian continent was a land of myth and heroic tales of legendary explorers but hardly the sort of isolated country that many of us would venture into.

How things have changed. Today, a constant procession of travellers crosses the country stopping off to marvel at some of the most dramatic coastline in Australia. Come the winter and the Nullarbor Lookout offers one of the best whale spotting vantage points in the world.

But despite the occasional detour to check on these amazing mammals many of us put the foot down on our way to our ultimate destination - missing so much of what the Nullarbor has to offer like the Koonalda Caves.

The mystery of Koonalda is just one secret to be explored on a trip from east to west.

Neville Collins: "It's been estimated that there are about one hundred thousand blowhole for instance... But how many caves and chambers underneath know one really knows."

The blowholes of the Nullarbor certainly live up to their name and they feature in a book written by retired policeman and author Neville Collins. He's had a long fascination with this part of outback Australia, having travelled much of it in this old Zephyr ute back in the early sixties. Neville knew there was more to the Nullarbor than meets the eye.

It might be treeless for hundreds of kilometres but the stories are endless. Like the tale of the Nullarbor Nymph. It all started as a practical joke and soon got out of hand after a few local wags stage-managed this photo and spread the yarn of a Nullarbor woman who'd gone "native". Roadside sightings meant the story spread like wildfire and soon the media had put the border town of Eucla on the map.

Neville Collins: "It sort of got out of control. It was at a time of low news stories if you like - the Christmas - New year period and suddenly journalists from all over Australia descended on Eucla."

Eucla's other secret - the old telegraph station - fights a never-ending battle with sand drift. They say a rabbit plague stripped much of the vegetation around this amazing monument to a by-gone era. But even in the days of Morse code State rivalries meant both SA and WA had their own way of doing things. The Crow-eaters used the US Morse code system ---- the Sandgropers preferred International Morse Code.

Neville Collins: "So a telegram would come in by Morse Code, be compiled by the person in South Australia and handed over to a desk to the person in Western Australia and he would send it on."

Neville's book is a compendium of stories about the Nullarbor - from Edward John Eyre's heroic exploration, a journey which took all of eighteen months - to the construction of the Indian Pacific Railway and the first crossing by car. If you're heading across this great expanse then prepare to stop and take your time because according to Neville the Nullarbor is worth exploring.

Neville Collins' book - The Nullarbor Plain, a History - is available from all major bookstores. RRP $35