The Arkaba Station Mountaintop Tour: Ron wanders the Flinders Ranges in the Outback region of South Australia
On the way out with guide Richard Wickens, we skirt the southern ramparts of Wilpena Pound. Through stands of white cypress which give this part of the Flinders a look like none other in outback South Australia.
"In the early days the government was setting minimum stocking rates that were ten to fifteen times what's considered the acceptable maximum now," explained Richard. "So that cleared a lot of areas and a lot of those areas have been colonised by this pine."
Soon we're off the bitumen and onto Arkaba Station, one of the early pastoral leases in the Flinders. It's spectacular country framed on one side by Wilpena Pound and as we begin our climb, the vistas reveal themselves and we become a mere dot in a vast and ancient landscape.
On the Arkaba Mountain Top Tour you are guaranteed your quota of mountains - in the distance is Rawnsley Bluff, the western flank of Wilpena Pound and the Chase Range. Further west is the magnificent Elder Range, named after the wealthy South Australian pastoralist, Sir Thomas Elder.
Fossilised remains of some of the oldest life forms on the planet have been found in the layers of sedimentary rock. They date back to when all that you see was under water.
"In a nutshell the history is that about 850-million years ago what the geologists call the Adelaide Geo Syncline opened up," said Richard. "Two plates in the earth's surface pulled apart leaving a great depression which became a sea. That extended south of where Kangaroo Island is now up through what's now the Fleurieu Peninsula, through the Flinders and onto the north."
Then, about 520-million years ago something equally incredible happened. Those tectonic plates, which had pulled apart, began to push together forcing up layers of ancient seabeds, which you can still see in the crumpled ridges of the Flinders today.
"Of course they had no where to go, the plates closed in and they were pushed up particularly into long dome like structures."
In fact we end up standing in the middle of a weathered dome which, at its peak might have rivalled one of the mountains of the Himalayas. The buckled folds of this ancient mountain range now mean there's plenty for the committed four wheel driver to climb but remember - what goes up must come down.
From the high points you get a sense of the vastness of this country but it's not until you get down into the creek beds that you discover the many hidden nooks and crannies of the Flinders Ranges. "Slatey" creek is aptly named as we slowly make our way along the rocky creek beds in the very heart of Arkaba Station.
By late afternoon, the abundant wildlife of the Flinders begins to reveal itself as they begin their search of tucker. In the hidden gullies you come across Emus, Western Grey and Red Kangaroos and the ubiquitous Euro.
By late in the day, they're everywhere thanks in part to the abundance of water on this part of Arkaba Station. From here, Arkaba Creek becomes our track leading us to the homestead, built in 1854. Here the Rasheed's have established yet another Flinders Ranges accommodation option with the recently restored overseers' cottage. It dates back to the days when station hands covered our mountaintop tour route on horseback. No doubt, they too watched in awe as the evening light worked it's magic on the ridges of the Elder Range.
The Arkaba Station Mountain Top Tour departs from Wilpena Pound Resort every day at 8.30am. To book contact 8648 0004. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
The Arkaba Station Mountaintop Tour
Departs Wilpena Pound Resort daily
Central Flinders Ranges
Bookings Ph 8648 4800Published 8th July 2007
