Surbiton House at Penneshaw: In the Kangaroo Island region of South Australia
When the Sealion 2000 ferry pulls into the jetty on Kangaroo Island it berths at what some locals call New Penneshaw, just across the bay from the famous spot where French Navigator Nicholas Baudin and the crew of Le Geographe found fresh water two hundred years ago. They'd been told about a spring in the rocks by the explorer Matthew Flinders. Now a domed monument marks this pivotal spot in South Australian history.
Soon a second wave of European visitors hit these shores making the most of the freshwater to be found at Hogg Bay. But the whalers and sealers, men like the fearsome George Fireball Bates, chose to establish their homes in what's now known as Old Penneshaw - the collection of buildings scattered around the old church which look down on the sheltered waters of a nearby cove. Local resident, Ray Swanson take up the story:
“It's largely a matter of the port. This is the only area where they were able to bring vessels close in. They didn't actually bring them into Christmas Cove. They stood the larger vessels off. And then they put the goods and passengers into lighters and the lighters came in and they unloaded them from there.”
They were a motley crew, the sealers and whalers and the others who later collected mallee for their eucalyptus stills.
“It was wild. They were scoundrels and rascals and all. But they also did a lot to develop the town and the village.”
On the drive through Old Penneshaw many tourists speed by what is one of the most prominent buildings in the history of this historic town - Surbiton House. It's now charming self-contained accommodation and it's balcony takes in the comings and goings from Christmas Cove as anglers try their luck in Backstairs Passage. Surbiton was owned by an early settler named, Harry Bates who typifies the independent spirit of the early settlers.
Today the Sealion 2000's giant engines make for a safe and secure passage across the strait to the mainland. Back in the 1880s Harry Bates took his cutter in and out through the opening at Christmas Cove and across to the mainland to collect the mail.
“The first owner. Harry Bates was the mailman. He took his cutter the "Lily May" over to Cape Jervis and brought back the mail and delivered it. He had a little post office in there. He worked it as a boarding house. He also had something that was probably most important, certainly for the port area - a wine saloon!”
Across the road is the Gateway Visitor Information Centre. It displays the original Frenchman's Rock which was carved by those who found water at Hogg Bay at Penneshaw. Nearby, there are plenty of reminders of its early past like the threshing floor overlooking Backstair's Passage. It proves that Harry Bates' was not only the mailman and grogshop owner but also one of the town’s first farmers.
For bookings at Surbiton at the Cove contact 8553 1166. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards.sa.com.au
