Second Valley - A tale of two hamlets: In the Fleurieu Peninsula region of South Australia

Down the Fleurieu Peninsula where the ancient bedrock of the Mt Lofty Ranges reaches the sea, Colonel William Light began his hurried search for the site of the city of Adelaide back in 1836. When he came to Rapid Bay he loved it. The ships complement camped there for days, he painted a picture of it, he called it "a little paradise". Then when he came just round the corner into the next cove he liked that too - he found a stream of beautiful fresh water and a lovely valley beyond it. Thus, Rapid Bay was the first and just along the coastline cliffs was the second, and so it became just that - Second Valley.

It's on the road beyond Yankalilla on the way to Cape Jervis - about a 1½ hour drive from Adelaide.

One of the first indications that Second Valley has a long and winding history is a monument commemorating the birth of Fanny Finnis - the first white girl born in South Australia. Now you may well wonder why there's a plaque way down in Second Valley, given she came into the world only a week after the Proclamation of the colony at the Old Gum Tree in 1836. Again, it's back to Colonel Light who left her Mum and Dad and a vegie garden (and the colonial surgeon luckily) at Rapid Bay as he headed up the Gulf. There was a lovely little fountain statue for Fanny Finniss by the road, but a car bumped into it and they shifted it into the safety of a garden, whence it disappeared entirely! Mind you, her Dad didn't disappear at all. Boyle Travers Finnis became the first Premier of South Australia.

The story of Second Valley is really the tale of two little towns - the still growing beachside holiday hamlet snuggled out of the wind and, and the old farming settlement up the creek. Second Valley is sleepy these days - the school's been closed for a half century, the general store's long gone, but its charm is very evident. Some of its cottages go back to the 1840's.

Acquiring a big stretch of land along the coast, William Randall left his mark here. The town subdivision he drew up in the 1860's he called "Randalsea", but the name didn't stick. His substantial Palm House holds firm though. In it's time it's been a bakery, a blacksmith and a boarding house for timber mill workers.

Up the hill, a quaint old weekender has seen even bigger changes. It was the Farmers Arms in the 1850's before it became the Finniss Vale Hotel - they've tried a few names here! Originally a 2 storied establishment, a fire destroyed the pub in 1928 and the current picturesque white cottage on the road in was rebuilt inside the remaining walls.

It was a long time between drinks for local farmers like Lou Whittlesea, (Sturt Magarey Medallist, Greg Whittlesea's Dad). Lou's a regular at the historic three storey Leonard's Mill and he has plenty of stories to share about the old landmark.

"After milking 60 odd cows, I used to shear sheep on the second floor. Where the bar is now, that was all grating and where you're standing for a beer, that was all sheep manure."

Call in for a drink or come and share a meal beneath the original 1850's timbers and you can feel the history - but not the manure, for yourself. Mercifully, this nationally listed heritage gem was restored 20 years ago, saving the old boiler and chimney and the millstones that ground more than 4 tonnes of flour a day in the 19th century. Leonard's Mill secured its name when Irish millers, John and James Leonard, bought it for 500 quid from the colony's founding outfit, the South Australia Company.

Bronnie Linke has resurrected the Mill and given it a friendly country pub feel after a couple of years of darkness. She recounts the fortunes of the mill after it ceased producing flour.

"They started milling or processing wattle bark, and when they did that they produced tannin which was used for tanning leather and I believe that was even sent out from the port here near the jetty to other places".

In the cove down the broad valley, the first jetty was erected nearly 150 years ago. And where a huddle of delapidated boatsheds line the rocky point, a rusted old winch serves as a reminder of times gone by. The old harbormaster's launching difficulties caused him such a headache that they called his boat, "Aspro".

The horses and ketches and steamers have given way to rock hoppers, beach lovers and those hoping to catch tonight's dinner from the short jetty. There's a rustic charm about the scene that's shared by the cattle on the hillside, weekenders with views up the cliffline, the campers in the Caravan Park and a gaggle of paddlers in the briney.

It's said that some of the folk of the district would like the name to go back to the old 19th century version, Randalsea, because they reckon this place is second to none. When you see the little bay and jetty and take in this beautiful Southern Fluerieu coastline, you'll see they've got a case to argue. Whatever, it must be time soon for you to come off the Cape Jervis road and head down here for a paddle at Second Valley.

You can stay at Second Valley Caravan Park while you are explore this great region.

Leonard's Mill Motel Ph: 8598 4184