Reeves Point Kingscote: Keith visits the point in the Kangaroo Island region of South Australia
Kangaroo Island is one of our international tourist beacons and a beckoning holiday spot for us all. As a result, its landmarks and unspoiled nature experiences are known around the world. But much of its history is not.
Take Reeves Point - it's only a small spit of land near Kingscote but it's writ large in South Australian history. It's here, not Glenelg that 170 years ago on July 27th our 'first fleet' arrived. The settlers were full of hopes of a utopia with freedom and riches for all. So why is that a magistrate arrived about a year later to find there's no water, no land, only drunkenness and demoralisation? It's quite a story!"
Reeves Point, which noses its way into the Bay of Shoals near Kingscote was chosen in far off London as the starting point for Australia's first convict free colony.
After 5 months at sea, the Duke of York was the first of four ships to make land in the winter of 1836. Earlier, in far off London the South Australian Company had chosen the sheltered waters of Kangaroo Island's north coast based on wildly optimistic observations from a rough procession of sealers who, over decades had camped there.
According to Kingscote history enthusiast, Beth Davis, the new arrival's dreams turned into a nightmare. "The settlers were led to believe that the land was fertile, there was plenty of water that cattle and sheep could be raised very easily," explained Beth. "There is a lot of land but there isn't much fresh water and the soil is deficient, especially around the coast so the crops didn't grow very well."
Day one: 2-year old Elizabeth Beare became the first official settler to set foot on the beach at Greeves Point. Day two: they search for water but found it in an old sealers well five miles hard rowing across the bay. Day three: they try to catch ducks and swans - instead they dined on roasted crow.
There are many poignant reminders of their efforts scattered around the pretty park at Reeves Point; The moving Prayer Nook where Captain Morgan of the first ship, the Duke of York gathered his passengers to give thanks for their safe arrival. The site of the first Post Office erected years later. A well-worn cutting through the hill to make the wagon bullock's work a little easier. And, of course, the settler's famous Mulberry Tree.
"This is the most symbolic site on Kangaroo Island," said Kate Williams, another local history buff. "Obviously they had their cuttings in their bags and what would you do? You'd pick a little bit of fertile ground and pop the tree in and this is the site."
A reminder of how tough the early colonial times were can be found in the nearby pioneer cemetery and the grave of a small baby. "This was a tragic story," said Kate. "Dr Byass was brought out as a surgeon to look after the colony. They had a baby son but when they arrived the house that they were promised didn't exist. They got a one room house to live in instead, and we assume … Mrs Byass, who was a very cultured lady was very unhappy with her circumstances, and when her baby son died all she wanted to do was leave."
Nearby is the grave of legendary Henry Wallen. He called himself "Governor" and the first settlers were staggered to learn that he had jumped ship a good 18 years before they arrived. He farmed quite successfully further inland at Cygnet River where he'd found plenty of fresh water and good land. His farm boasted pigs, chooks and a good veggie patch.
"He offered to help," said Kate. "But he arrived in his wallaby skinned outfit, a big beard and he smelt pretty foul and he wasn't welcome."
High on windy Flagstaff Hill overlooking the point there's a new monument to the settlers who landed on the beach below. The local basalt sculptures depict the bows of the first four ships that carried the ill-fated pioneers… the Duke of York, the John Pirie, Lady Mary Pelham and the Rapid.
By the end of 1836, despite the best efforts of the settlers, their location was passed over. "When William Light came to have a look at what was going on he thought this is not very good," said Beth. "So that's when he went to Adelaide and Glenelg and found more fertile soil and better conditions…"
For a handful though, the Kangaroo Island pioneering spirit prevailed. Nearby Kingscote, the island's main town is proof that with the right support a good life is possible here.
The annual ceremony at Flagstaff Hill on July 27, 2006 will mark the 170th anniversary. An easy Reeves Point History Walk is included in the Kingscote booklet that's in most shops. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards-sa.com.au
Flagstaff Hill Flag raising ceremony
27 July 2006Published 16 July 2006
