Loch Luna Voyages: On the Murray River near Barmera in South Australia's Riverland

It's not until you get high above the Murray near Barmera that you realise just how convoluted this ancient river system really is. From the air the anabranches of the main river channel fan out like capillaries feeding the dry mallee interior.

But from the bow of Peter Foley's MV Loch Luna you soon get a sense of just how vital this waterway is to the local wildlife.

After leaving Kingston-on-Murray we're bound for the backwaters that lead into Lake Bonney. First stop is just upstream from Loch Three. A popular fuel stop for the ever present pelican as Peter Foley explains.

"The are extremely large birds but they are marvelous flying machines. They tell me the skeleton only weighs about five ounces under the old scale which is what about a hundred grams. It could land on the palm of your hand and you could support it quite easily."

Soon we're in Loch Luna. A line of dead gums marks the outline of the bank of old Nockburra Creek which, like so much around here, is now underwater thanks to the nearby lock built in 1925. But the shallow water means only the more adventurous can venture in creating a peaceful haven for the local birdlife.

"Dotted along the river bank about every twenty to twenty five miles there lived a timber cutter with his family. He'd have a wood pile on the bank and they were the service stations for the paddle steamers that travelled up and down the river system. And the old paddlewheelers used to burn a ton of wood every three hours."

Soon we pass a reminder of the impact of the cross saw - operated by two blokes on the backwaters of the Murray.

"Two men, one either side. Push him you go, pull him you come and all I can say is thank goodness we didn't have chain saws in those days. We'd have nothing left."

There are other reminders of how nature fights back, with the dead sustaining the living, as we push on into the narrow waters on what was once Cobdogla Station.

"So we're now entering Chambers Creek - named after John Chambers. He had the pastoral lease on Cobdogla Station and it ran from Overland Corner up to Lake Victoria in New South Wales. Sheep, cattle and horses. The 'Circle C' horses are quite famous in South Australia. In fact, the original ones were the breeding stock for the Police Greys."

Chambers didn't spend much time here. His city home at Carclew in North Adelaide gives you some idea of the wealth generated by pastoral holdings like Cobdogla and Chambers was always in search of more. He sponsored John McDouall Stuart's exploration of inland Australia.

"Look at that colour out there. Isn't that just superb?"

Soon we're slicing through a carpet of colour as the MV Loch Luna cuts her way through the Ozalla or duck weed which plays a vital role in re-oxygenating the still waters of Chambers Creek.

For thousands of years this was home to the Barmidji people, hence the name Barmera for the nearby Riverland town. And it was at this local landmark that the Barmidji kept watch over their tribal land.

"This is Sugarloaf Hill. A significant sandstone outcrop, it was very important to the aboriginal people as it gave them a great overview of the flood plain and beyond. Sturt wrote in his journal in 1830 when he came through there was a large column of smoke coming from the top of Sugarloaf Hill. Not that he called it Sugarloaf Hill but that's where it was. And they were obviously warning other tribes downstream that Sturt's party was on its way."

It was a moment in time which would ultimately change the lives of the Barmidji forever.. and the Murray and its backwaters for that matter. Soon Sturt's glowing reports of arable land further south would prompt authorities in London to press ahead with a new colony called South Australia.

The story of Sturt's journey through this part of the Murray is just one of the many that comes to life as part of Peter Foley's Loch Luna voyage. It takes three hours and costs $30 per person. For bookings contact Peter on 8583 0223. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards.sa.com.au