ILUKA CHARTERS: Kangaroo Island

"G'day Murray"

"Ron, how are you?"

"Beautiful day"

"Absolutely superb"

From Emu Bay, Murray Borchard, the skipper of the "Iluka" prepares to set off on another cruise along the coast of Kangaroo Island. Soon the historic jetty fades into the distance, a reminder of the days when the ketches pulled in to pick up grain. Back then they did it under sail, but for us the often-tempestuous north coast has provided the calmest of days as Murray searches in vain for the slightest hint of a breeze.

"And once we get around the corner from Cassini then you start t get your quite high cliffs again prior to Stokes Bay".

"It's still beautiful countryside".

"Yes it is. It's magnificent countryside".

"You having a battle with the wind mate?"

"The battle is over…the battle's over".

Becalmed by the lack of any breeze in Investigator Strait, the passengers feel much the same way as they take in the tranquillity of the undulating coastline as we motor towards Cape Cassini. It's almost two hundred years since the French explorer Nicholas Baudin named this stretch of coast after one of his countrymen, the astronomer Caesar Cassini de Thury. And it's a starry-eyed Sydneysider who's come to appreciate the wonders of these majestic waters.

"Introduced my wife to the island about two years ago and when I suggested that we come to KI for a week, I didn't get too many arguments".

"Yer, so what do you think about the trip here?"

"Oh it's fantastic. Does it get any better than this? I don't think it does"

"Kangaroo Island is a well kept secret and probably part of its attraction is that you can come out here and you've got absolute solitude. I mean we're the only boat in the water on the harbour in the Bay and that's part of the attraction of the place I think. Certainly there's not that many people that know about Kangaroo Island but more and more people are becoming aware of it, mainly because we keep on telling everybody".

Out here the only local we spot skims the water in search of a feed along a stretch of quite scrub-lined coast where the early farmers obviously had an eye for prime locations when settling this part of Kangaroo Island. And so too does the Iluka's skipper as we anchor in secluded waters just east of Stokes Bay.

The layers of sedimentary rock in the cliff face are like chapters in the book of Kangaroo Island's geological history, recording a story which goes back millions of years, to a time when the island, the mainland and Antarctica were joined as part of what we now know as Gondwana. At this timeless part of the coast, we take time out to explore its temperate waters. For some, the break offers time to check on a possible feed in the crystal clear waters that fall away from the northern cliffs.

"And there's a lot of little angel fish"

"Yep"

"And I've seen a craypot down there, someone's lost a craypot"

"But no cray"

"No cray"

The trip back to Emu Bay is just as leisurely, offering the chance to wet a line, and pull in the occasional tommy. But for us the scenery has provided plenty to feast on during a trip that has offered just a hint of the spectacular cliffs that dominate this part of the island. To experience the island's north coast charms, contact Adventureland Diving on 8553-1072. They offer a range of motoring cruises from American River. Half day fishing charter $55.00 per adult. Full day charter $1375 for 14 people. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards.sa.com.au