Head of the Bight: Whales in 1999
with Keith Conlon

The leviathans.... the giants of the deep...there's hardly a word big enough, impressive enough to describe the southern Right Wales that have gathered again in this remote and spectacular whale calf nursery....

The waters are now protected in a New National Park, and the land is looked after by rangers from the Yalata Aboriginal Community. Last year, as the whale season was getting under way, two of them showed me around.

For them, a rock formation in the sea has a special Dreamtime meaning. Sonny Pepper links the winter return of the whales to the outcrop.

The northern most spot in the Bight where the awesome and majestic Limestone Cliffs begin their 200 km precipitous edge to the continent is certainly a magnet for visitors now.

Ken Burgoyne gives tourism centres a daily whale count before they head in.

The rangers' updates spread far and wide, and particularly to Ceduna. The west coast fishing, oyster and farming a town centre calls itself "The Gateway to the Nullabor". The 24 hour non-stop truckie's convention is testament to that.

The Head of the Bight is a three hour drive west from Ceduna. About two thirds of the way, the Yalata Roadhouse which offers supplies, accommodation, and they'll sell you a pass to the whale-viewing too.

You known you've reached the Nullabor Plain when the mallee peters out. Its name in Latin means "no trees".... It's the biggest slab of limestone in the world, but be warned it's not deserted.

Heading West, if you get to Nullabor Roadhouse....you've gone too far! The distances to anywhere else are sobering, but fortunately only a few kilometres away, this is the sign that must be obeyed if you want to experience this!

This is Nature writ large...and sometimes dangerous. The walkways help keep visitors safe, but the whale cows have to use the chiffs and their own bodies to protect their newborn.

Ken and Sonny are around to help visitors - and to keep an eye on their Yalata lands. It's more than a job.

They report there are about 30 Southern Right Whales at the Head of the Bight now, including 9 pairs of mothers and babies. They're on the lookout for a couple of very attractive humpbacks who just called in too. Their tip for the very best viewing? Late August into September, when they could be up to a hundred whales cruising the nursery strip.

For holiday information....secrets of the Eyre Peninsula and a Nullabor brochure both including whale touring information there's a toll free number, 1800 639 413.

For website information:

Eyre Peninsula Tourism Association
PO BOX 1145, Pt Lincoln, South Australia 5606
E-mail: epta@pl.camtech.net.au
Website: www.epta.com.au
More Information on Whales at the Head of the Bight