Grindels Hut at Arkaroola, a unique accommodation experience

It's rugged features have long attracted the more adventurous traveller. And when you're out here you can't help but be impressed by the harsh beauty of the Gammon Ranges.

For ranger, Christian Coulthard . . . this is a special place. As an Adnyamathana man he knows every nook and cranny of this National Park . . . and every gully and creek bend has a particular meaning.

"That Blue range is the Eastern side of Main Water Pound and that's the home for the Ochora the Dreamtime Serpent . . . the Rainbow Serpent as all the other people know it . . . but he lives up in there and every now and then you can hear him rumble on a clear day and it sounds like thunder. That's his belly that's rumbling there . . . that's the Ochora the home for the Serpent".

"Oh okay . . . and so what's the dreaming story"?

"Oh well, the Ochora one year . . . a long time ago . . . one year it was very hot and dry and the Ochora came out of his home up there and he travelled through Main Water Creek looking for water . . . and he went out down Arkaroola Creek then he travelled all the way down and he followed Arkaroola Creek all the way to Lake Frome".

From the air . . . it all comes to life . . . as you trace Ochora's progress along Arkaroola Creek through the Gammon Ranges and out the eastern edge all the way to Lake Frome in the distance. According to the Serpent Dreaming Ochota drank the lake dry . . . and with bloated belly made his way back again . . . gouging out the many ravines which snake their way through his geological chaos. And as he retreated to his home he left various water holes and springs along the way.

And while the surrounding ridges are steeped in aboriginal stores . . . this tiny hut on the edge of this spectacular valley is pivotal to pastoral history of the Gammons. At the turn of the century this was about as remote as you could get.

"Out here there's another tale to be told . . . a white fella tale . . . of murder most foul. A story of sheep rustling and two blokes going just a little mad in the rugged Gammon Ranges".

The plaque tells the story of John Grindel . . . a pastoralist who ran sheep in this valley back in 1918 . . . and who fell out with family member George Snell . . . the part owner of neighbouring Yankanina Station. Both accused the other of rustling sheep . . . and when it came to a face to face showdown Grindel snapped and shot his son-in-law . . . in what become one of the State's grisliest murder tales.

"He actually shoved him on the camel and wandered him around the bush for a few days . . . took the camel right around . . . just basically to side track the trackers".

"He shoved his body in a log jam and just chucked a match to it".

The police finally found the remains of Snell's body on the other side of this ridge . . . and later arrested Grindel . . . in his remove stone hut.

"They did have it hard you know, you can probably see why he did it after he became a little bit silly . . . I mean coming home in forty degrees in the day and then at night she's still thirty seven degrees or thirty six, and then you've got to cook your tucker gee".

"Yer pretty hard work".

"No wonder he wanted a few rums".

Grindel's death sentence was later commuted to life imprisonment and he was eventually released in 1928.

The early pastoralists finally gave up on their attempts to run sheep in this unforgiving country . . . and the outstations are now run by National Parks and Wildlife along with the nearby Shepherds Hut. Both are available for hire and offer stunning views of the Gammon Ranges.

The outstation has basic facilities and costs 72 dollars per night and sleeps ten . . . while the shepherd's hut is available for six dollars.

For bookings contact 61 (0)8 8648 4244. or email info@postcards.sa.com.au