Dare's Hill Circuit Tour in the Mid North region of South Australia with Keith Conlon

Standing on top of a hill looking out across ancient mountain ranges drifting into the distance we could have been forgiven for thinking we were in the Flinders Ranges. But in fact, we were only 200 kilometres north of Adelaide.

Base yourself in Burra, head further north up the Barrier Highway and look for the sign in Hallett that points you to an almost unknown and scenic drive, the Dare's Hill Circuit Tour.

The drive heads east from Hallett and covers about 90 kilometres as it heads north and joins the highway again at Terowie. You can do it in a couple of hours but local Hallett historian, Mary Fahey reckons you should make a day of it because there's plenty to see.

"The Dare's Hill Circuit Tour is an artist's dream," said Mary. "If you're keen to paint take your brush and easel and you could lose yourself completely out there because there's so much to see and so much to capture."

Mary's right. At first the unsealed road weaves slowly between newly sown paddocks of wheat and barley. Next you're in gently undulating sheep country. There are thick stands of Peppermint Box too, home to a mob of Western Grey Kangaroos. You're bound to see a few so don't forget your camera.

The route passes through country that was once home to Sir Hubert Wilkins - one of Australia's greatest early aviators and adventurers. He was born here in 1888 and spent more than a quarter of his life exploring the north and south polar regions.

It's not long before the country changes again. The trees are more typical mallee scrub and the first sign of saltbush. After the classic mid-north cropping country you head beyond the range further east. The old-timers reckon the further east you go the rainfall drops perhaps an inch a mile.

The drive crosses Goyder's Line. George Goyder was the Surveyor General in 1865 who drew the ten inch rainfall line across the state. One side was suited to cropping - the other grazing.

After a slow drive up the range we finally get to the Dare's Hill Summit. They promised a stunning view and they were right. Off in the distance are wonderfully named features like the Wonna Range, Chinaman's Hat and Ketchowla Hill. To the east is the Murray River and they reckon in days gone by you could even see the smoke from the paddlesteamers.

Off the summit and the drive down into the valley below passes a sign pointing to Collinsville Merino Stud. It's wool is famous world wide but not all venture around here have been so successful.

Further along the track are some lonely ruins - what's left of Piltimitiappa Homestead. William or old Billy Dare built it in the 1850s. The Dare family's connection with the land is still strong - it drew David Dare, William's great great grandson back from years overseas.

"Billy Dare came out in the late 1830s, moved north and roamed around with the Aborigines for a while," said David. "He got to know the country and made some money I think in the goldfields in Victoria and came back and took up holdings here at the place called Piltimiltiappa."

It's a melodic name but it can't hide the sense of extremes and hardship and how remote it was for them.

"They never went away much," said David "They'd go to town probably once a year to take some wool down and it'd probably take three or four weeks."

It helps explain why another 10 kilometres along there's another grand plan that came to nothing - the would-be town of Mallett which was surveyed but never developed.

Beyond the ranges is old Ketchowla Station. Its classic woolshed harks from an era when Australia rode on the sheep's back.

The country is always changing. Around every bend and over every ridge there's a different vista just as good as the last. The Postcard perfect images continue all the way to Terowie.

The Dare's Hill Circuit Tour is an easy trip and you don't even need a four wheel drive provided the weather's been good. Drop into the Burra Visitor Centre for a map and to check the conditions.

Dare's Hill Circuit Tour
Info from Burra Visitor Centre
Market Square
Burra SA
Ph (08) 8892 2154