Cooper Creek: In the Outback region of South Australia
Flying low over the Cooper Creek you begin to understand just what an essential life force this has always been - first for the Yauraworka and Yantruwantra aboriginal people who camped on its banks for thousands of years and later for the European explorers and the pastoralists who followed.
A life force too for the abundant birdlife. Tourists arrive by road and cross the Cooper at the Innamincka causeway, which, from the air looks neatly, contained within the deserts of Central Australia.
But hop on board the Cooper Discoverer Cruise and let Peter Ware's commentary wash over you and you'll see this "creek" in an entirely different light:
“Now in 1990, at the peak of the flood (in that year) the amount of water that was flowing over the causeway was equivalent to three times the amount of water in Sydney Harbour.”
There was no such raging torrent when Captain Charles Sturt became the first white man to see the Cooper back in 1845. He called it a creek because it had little or no current. It's a description, which obviously still rankles with our tour guide today.
“The Cooper is the only ‘creek’ in the world that I know of that three major rivers flow into to form a ‘creek’.”
Those rivers are the Thompson, Wilson and Barcoo, which are fed by monsoon rains in Queensland. And while some may debate whether it should be called a creek or river there's certainly no disputing it's beauty.
Those who talk about the ‘dead heart’ of Australia haven't traveled on the Cooper. Spend an hour or so on the Sunset Cruise and you realise what a beautiful and serene combination the desert and water can become.
It's a desert waterway which attracts birds from thousands of kilometres away but it's the locals like the whistling kites which remain some of the most impressive.
“It's not uncommon to see those kites swoop down low over the surface of the water and pluck a small fish from the water with their claws. They'll then head to a nearby tree to devour the fish.”
Captain Sturt ventured into the great unknown pulling a whaleboat as he went in search of the mythical Inland Sea. We were a little better equipped but nonetheless we took our time to explore the inland marvel.
From Pied Cormorants to galahs sneaking a quick drink, the Cooper comes alive at sunset. And so do your senses as you take in all that's at water level and above.
By the close of day, the chill of the desert starts to bite and we head for home taking with us memories of beautiful scenery and sunsets and a better understanding of the magic that happens when water meets the desert.
“I just love coming into the desert areas of Australia. It's full of waterways and it’s just absolutely brilliant. There's nothing like getting up in the morning and sitting here and just enjoying life.”
“It's a bit of shock isn't it when you drive out through the gibber and then come over ridge and then you see the water here?”
“Oh yes. Yes it's so dry for so long and then all of a sudden the water just appears. The sun's shining and it's just a fantastic place.”
“What is it that you like about this region?”
“This is the second time that we've been here. On each occasion we've been taken in by the wildlife. By the desert and the contrasts and the history.”
A potent mix which is available to us all on the Cooper Discoverer Cruises. Peter's boat is moored on the town common. His sunset cruise gets underway at about 4pm daily. If you have any further questions please email info@postcards.sa.com.au
