Chateau Tanunda: in the Barossa Valley region of South Australia
In the Barossa Valley, a massive bluestone and brick chateau still dominates the valley floor. Only a few years ago, it was a neglected and decrepit old sleeping giant, but Chateau Tanunda is not just awake again - it is enjoying a whole new lifestyle.
In the corner tasting room, its classically symmetrical lines look good on the labels of today, and in 1890 it was surely a big statement. It arose from the needs of hundreds of Germanic grapegrowers (small holders) who needed a big winery to take their good vintages. British-born investors with export profits in mind bought in cast-iron columns from Glasgow and oak from France and housed them in bluestone from Bethany and bricks baked on site. They built an optimistic and grand chateau that housed a million gallons of wine. The grotesque corporate carry-on of the late twentieth century, however, saw it languishing, dangerously unloved, and so this elaborate chunk of Barossa heritage needed a friend… a visionary.
Internationally experienced Penny Raferty manages it all now, and I asked her to tell us about its new owner, John Geber.
“He has been in food and wine for twenty years in Australia,” she said. “John brought experience from his original home, South Africa, and Europe.”
“Five years and maybe five million dollars later, how’s it going?”
“There’s quite a lot in place already, and a lot of the chateau is now open to the public, but John insists that everything we do will stand the task of time.”
The long multi-gabled northern face of the building reminds us there is heritage en masse here - and a touch of whimsy too. Brenton Hann looks like one of the landscaping labourers (because he is), but he is also the designer of all the outdoor details that complete the big picture.
The winery was built for some help from gravity and so there is a high-side with vast concrete tanks backing into the slope. They are no longer evident, covered by an attractive deck with an infant orangerie that’s full of promise. Brenton was marking out the soon-to-arrive potted olive hedge when he pointed to the range beyond.
“We thought we would give visitors a nice new view of the hills over the vineyards,” he smiled. It is also a perfect spot for looking down on the croquet lawn below. It is hard to imagine the green was once covered with 3000 tonnes of concrete. We left two backpackers working on their croquet skills and headed back inside where a redgum peninsula reaches into the cathedral of a barrel room and easily absorbs a visiting mini-bus group. They’re welcomed as long as they book for a structured tasting through the Chateau Tanunda whites and reds.
Upstairs, it is a work in progress. A lofty space that was slowly filling with pigeon poo has been transformed into a spot for a slap-up do for several hundred, while in The Long Room along one end of the structure new windows offer fresh views of the vineyards through to Mengler’s Hill. Add candles and fine cuisine and you’re into a European Chateau experience for a fraction of the price.
Through the front windows, more compelling angles on the vines - and, yes, another project… over the railway line that once began the journey for Barossa barrels to the wineshops of London, there is a very English idea. The “Castle cricket pitch” has three turf wickets in place and a booking for its first game in just a few months. Before that, however, another chateau chapter is about to be writ, as a perfect voice wafts across the green.
The incomparable soprano singer Dame Kiri Te Kanawa will perform in concert with the 60 piece Australian Philharmonic Orchestra on Saturday 1 March, 2003.
As we traveled round the extensive grounds, we noticed there were piles of large grey cobblestones everywhere. Brenton Hann’s team will have laid many more by the time of the concert, and they’ll stretch even further by Easter when the Barossa Vintage Festival 2003 should bring admiring hordes here. The Festival booklet lists dozens of activities across the Valley’s towns and wineries throughout a week of festivities, including “On the Green”, an all-day entertainment and picnic affair on April 24 at Chateau Tanunda.
The Barossa Small Winemakers Centre within Chateau sees the small growers and makers catered for all over again. More than 50 labels from 20 small producers are featured for purchase. A browse through the names sees the Germanic tradition holding strong - the Zander family, Liebich, Rosenweig, Bech and Mader, with their fifth generation holding.
Thanks to Kelly Hoffmann and Martin Kayesler (Flinders University Cultural Tourism Degree) for their assistance.
Details
Chateau Tanunda
Basedow Road
Tanunda, South Australia 5352Cellar doors open daily 10am-5pm
Ph: (08) 8563 3888 Fax: (08) 8563 1422
Email: info@chateautanunda.com
Web: www.chateautanunda.com
Dame Kiri Te Kanawa Concert
Sat 1 March 2003 (Fully Reserved)
Bookings via BASS ph. 131246
Web: www.bass.net.auBarossa Vintage Festival
21 - 27 April, 2003
Program booklet from:
