The Central Market - What's New? with Keith Conlon. In the Adelaide City region of South Australia
There is no doubt about it. The Central Market is one of the institutions and one of the attractions of the city of Adelaide.In fact, it's the best produce market in Australia on all counts. But it doesn't hold that reputation by standing still. Otherwise, there'd be no new tomato red painted stall, and they would all look like the old photos in the book that celebrates its character, called simply "The Market".It's pages chronicle the characters and the changes... and it's still happening.
If you want some help spotting the latest, get a guide!
This year's tour leader is new to the task, but he's on familiar territory. Mark Gleeson is a longtime foodie and part owner of The Providore stall. And there's action right on his doorstep.
"Have you tried the new Greek yoghurt with the real fruit on top? Have a taste."
This is an idea who's time has come, as is witnessed by the procession of willing tasters... and take-home customers... that ready to eat trend is well and truly evident. Mark's stall is doing instant salads, new -look stall Jaggers has a couple of dozen dips to choose from. Pick a colour that turns you on. And the main course? No worries-head for GQ. its enticing display of curries, ragouts and more make it a mini-catering division.
" We do the cooking so people don't have to worry about it. They just come here, pick it out and we box it up for them,"
says Louis, and Angie adds,
"It's really wholesome cooking. It's not your fast takeaway."
You can top off your market dinner with fruits and cheeses. From the Fleurieu to France, the choice of cheeses has grown to dozens. Mark aptly calls one new set of stalls "the wall of cheese".
A timeless joy for me at the Central Market is that, no matter how many times you've wandered the aisles, there is ALWAYS something new... like the labels on the European goodies at the Sevenhill stall. Its Polish born operator, Waldek, patiently points out , however, that novelty is in the eye of the beholder.
"Yes, every day there are people coming along and saying we didn't know you exist in the market. They discover us, even though we've been here almost twenty years."
Older European immigrants love its traditional fare, including a a tangy and drinkable yoghurt called Kefir. It is a traditional cultured milk drink that came to Eastern Europe from the Middle East , thinks Waldek. He's going by the name and also the number of Turkish and Lebanese shoppers who seek it out. Lots of health conscious customers too- everything old is new again.
With lunch time looming, Central Market Tours guide Mark Gleeson steers us towards the corner close to "Her Majesty'sTheatre" on Grote Street.
"It's unbelievable! I don't know if you've been down this end of the Market recently, but there have been some fantastic changes come about here."
"Will you build this into the tour?"
"I'd love to. I've got to... it's new!"
We look in on Helena and family. She's the Baboushka of the Russian Piroshki stall, next to Zedz's Cafe, where we join Fragno as he plans the "fish of the day" offering at nearby "Cappo's". One former top hotel chef consults another. Behind the refrigerator-counter laden with fresh seafood, Ian suggests the Atlantic Salmon. And while Fragno and fellow chef Richard plot its accompaniment, an unscripted gathering- a market of cooks- just comes together at an adjacent table. Susie from the long time favourite lunch spot, "The Malaccan Corner", adds a traditional sambal to the growing feast and joins in.
"Just sit around and talk and eat," smiles Mark. "There are dishes from all over the world here. It's just wonderful."
It's like Marco Polo getting deliciously lost down this end, but he may have been guided on how to tackle a plate of piroshkis... yes, you can eat them in your fingers.
"Are they the pastie of Moscow?"
"They're the hot dog of Russia!"
Sun Mee brought over a market favourite from her Korean hot food stall, explaining that "Bi Bim Pab" means "taxi driver". Its segments include red and green vegetables, meat, egg and salad. Mix it and go. That's why it's called that.
The more you know, the better it tastes. Fragno (who is also an artist) has visions for here, so down in this Marco Polo corner of the Market, better get in for a feed while you can still get a seat. It's another fascinating part of the traditional but ever changing Central Market.
Central Market Tours
Thursdays to Saturdays
Call Mark Gleeson for times and prices.
Phone: 61 (0)8 8231 5977
Web: www.centralmarkettour.com.auAdelaide Central Market
Tuesdays - 7:00 am to 5:30 pm
Thursdays - 9:00 am to 5:30 pm
Fridays - 7:00 am to 9:00 pm
Saturdays - 7:00 am to 3:00 pm
