Arkaroo Rock

The old posts and fence wire scattered throughout the Flinders Ranges underline the desire of the early white pioneers to tame and control this rugged country. But to local Adnyamathanha guide Sharpy Coulthard each range snaking its way across the horizon is much more than a landmark or boundary, but part of an ancient story which explains his people's very existence.

As you walk through bushland on the outer eastern rim of Wilpena Pound you realise that to the experienced Adnymathahana eye, little out here went to waste.

"So they came across this plant, the native hibiscus and what they did to this plant is they stripped it all down and then they stuck it in the water and they macerated the plant. Then they dragged it out and rolled it and dried it and from there that made strings and from the strings they made nets".

When hunting kangaroos or birds in a rocky gully like this, a net draped from one side to the other was a far better option than damaging or loosing a finely crafted spear. And when you couldn't trap or spear your food, you could pick it, if you knew what to look for.

"This plant here is the Triodia Herita, common name Porcupine Bush, and in my language they call it Vakarie and the women folk that gathered all the seeds from this and then they stay there for half a day or a full day winnowing and then they'd grind it up to make flour for little dampers and things like that".

"And you were saying before though, Burke and Wills tried to eat this as well but didn't know what they were doing".

"Yes, they'd seem my people do it alright, collecting all the seeds and everything, but they forgot to winnow the seed and when they ate it, it blew their stomachs up".
"So it just expanded?"
"It expanded and that's what killed them".

It's bush lore which has been passed down by word of mouth for thousands of years, and the Adnyamathanha's close spiritual attachment to this land is scratched in stone.

"So where are we now Sharpy?"
"We're at Arkaroo Rock".
"This was a meeting place?"
"This is where all the hunters used to come and sit down here and have a rest and while they were here they'd do all these paintings".

Some look like kangaroo tracks, others shaped like semi-circles may represent the outline of men around a campfire.

"And what about that, it's almost like Wilpena itself with the little crater there".

"Well I reckon that would be - that would represent water".
"And over here you can see the snake the big reptile that created Wilpena Pound".

It's from above that you really begin to appreciate what Sharpy Coulthard knows, that this supernatural wonder was formed when two giant snakes coiled together to form what he calls Ikira and what we call Wilpena Pound. "And where did they come from?"

"They came from the big water holes at Arrona Dam at Leigh Creek". "Any idea how old all this is?"
"Well I reckon this is about fifteen to twenty thousand years old".

Adnyamathanha means "Hills People" and the paintings at Arkaroo Rock are probably just a fraction of the sacred aboriginal stories recorded on rock walls throughout these ranges. Every so often, new rock paintings are discovered, many remain secret, but Sharpy Coulthard's Bush Lore tour will certainly give you a greater appreciation of the intimate relationship between the Adnyamathanha people and their ancient land.

Sharpy's Tours leave from the Wilpena Pound Visitor Centre at 8.30am to 2.00pm daily. However, bookings are essential and can be made on 8648-0048.

For more information you can email: info@postcards.sa.com.au